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Revised Complete Guide to Easter Island Now Available!

 

A revised edition of The Complete Guide to Easter Island has been released by the Easter Island Foundation. Like its predecessor, which underwent three printings and has sold more copies than any other EIF publication, this expanded version brings together the latest scientific and tourist information in a format designed to appeal to both researchers and lay readers alike: Sections on history, legends, conservation, island theories, antiquities, and culture complement detailed coverage of the village of Hanga Roa, accommodations, shopping, vehicle rental, entertainment, island sights, and more. The Guide also includes a chapter on the Rapanui language, an extensive glossary, a detailed chronology, a comprehensive bibliography, and updated island maps. With 70 additional pages, this revised Guide includes new sections, such as discussions on the role of the sweet potato in Oceania, dating systems used by scientists, and listings of Easter Island artefacts found in museums around the world. Richly illustrated and featuring black & white and color photographs by the author. Whether you’ve been on the island, are planning your first trip, or returning to this most enigmatic place, The Complete Guide is your indispensable Easter Island resource. $25 + shipping. Order your copy from the EIF today!

(Also available from Amazon.com)

 

 


 

Announcing an EIF publication

by Rhys Richards...

 

Easter Island 1793 to 1861:

Observations by Early Visitors

Before the Slave Raids

 

From the back cover:

 

An exhaustive collection of reports, letters, and accounts —

some never before published — from the first ships to visit

Easter Island. A valuable scholarly edition to find a space

on every Rapanuiphile’s bookshelf!

 

 

Softbound; 144 pages (featuring black & white

photographs and illustrations);

 ISBN 978-1-880636-28-2; 2008

 

Available from the Easter Island Foundation

(Easter Island Foundation Publications)

or

Amazon.com

 


 

Announcing a new publication by Christopher Stevenson & Sonia Haoa

 

Prehistoric Rapa Nui.

Landscape and

Settlement Archaeology

at Hanga Ho´onu

 

From the back cover:

 

As the authors of this book show, contrary to past perceptions,

the Easter Island landscape was a highly transformed and

managed agricultural terrain that emerged in response to

deforestation by the Polynesians who settled there. This volume

adds a new dimension to scholarly investigations about why the

island’s prehistoric society evolved the way it did.

 

 

Softbound; 297 pages (includes a fold-out map)

ISBN 978-1-880636-26-8; 2008

 

Available from the Easter Island Foundation

(Easter Island Foundation Publications)

or

Amazon.com

 


 

Announcing a new publication

by Rhys Richards...

 

Manu Moriori: Human and Bird Carvings

on Live Kopi Trees on the Chatham Islands.

 

From the back cover:

 

Tree carvings made by Moriori long ago remain alive today on Rekohu on only about 150 living trees. At the present rate of decline, all living carved trees could well be dead within the next generation. Fortunately, a substantial body of sketches and photographs of the motifs carved by Moriori long ago is available in Dunedin. The main motifs are squatting human "hocker" figures, which Moriori called "manu" or "birds". Before traditional Moriori society was overwhelmed by the Maori invasion in 1835, Moriori talked to thee carvings as an interface t hrough which to speak to their dead ancestors and spirits that were not in this world.

 

 

Softbound; 96 pages (featuring color and

black & white photographs and drawings);

 ISBN 0-9582013-7-4; 2004

 

Order direct from Paremata Press

73 Seaview Rd., Paremata

Wellington, New Zealand 5024

 


Another Archaeological Attack

According to an article appearing in the April 6 El Mercurio de Valparaíso, two 30-year-old islanders, identified only by their initials (“L.P.T.” and “E.E.P.”), were caught damaging a protected archaeological site on the island in the area of Akahanga on the south coast and detained by police. The two were digging a shallow well ostensibly to provide water for their animals. Considering the act a flagrant violation, CONAF responded quickly and Sonia Haoa, a representative of the Consejo de Monumentos Nacionales de Rapa Nui, was dispatched to the site to certify its prehistoric status and evaluate the damage. In the process of digging the 10-foot (3-meter) deep well, the islanders had, in fact, uncovered ancient tools (which were taken away by local police).

Ironically, the archaeologist has been criticized by some islanders for her condemnation of the acts of these two natives, as evidently certain inhabitants do not view the digging of the well in an archaeologically sensitive area as particularly reprehensible. By comparison with what the Finnish tourist did, one may make the distinction between intentional and unintentional harm but one cannot escape the conclusion that both incidents involved needless damage to the cultural patrimony of Easter Island. Yet it’s also difficult to escape the sense that there is a double standard; i.e., damage done to the island’s archaeology by a foreign tourist is worse than damage done to the island’s archaeology by natives. This apparent bias is borne out by the fact that local judicial authorities have ordered a 60-day evaluation period to determine on their own if the area where the two islanders dug the well is an archaeological site or not, despite the fact that a formal determination of this was made by an archaeologist.

• • •

Easter Island Moai Damaged

According to various media reports (e.g., Yahoo! News, CNN.com, the New York Times, etc.) and corroborated by information supplied by Easter Islanders and numerous authorities, a 26-year-old Finnish tourist named Marko Kuljo was detained on Sunday, March 23rd after allegedly vandalizing one of the moai on Ahu Nau Nau. While initially facing the possibility of a prison term and a fine of $19,000 (U.S. dollars) if convicted of breaking off a piece of the right earlobe of the third moai on the ahu, the tourist, after being held under house (“hotel”?) arrest, is now going to be allowed to leave the island in so far as he has written a public apology, has paid a $17,000 (U.S. dollar) fine, and is banned from the island for three years.

A non-native islander witnessed Kuljo repeatedly wandering around the platform, then jumping onto it and grabbing the lower earlobe of the moai. A piece was torn away and fell to the ground where it broke into fragments 8- to 12-inches (20- to 30-centimeters) in size. Kuljo then tried to run off with a souvenir of his reprehensible exploit. This is especially pitiful, as the moai at Ahu Nau Nau are amongst the better preserved on the island. The witness chased the suspect, obtained his name, and was able to provide a description of him (partly because of his extensive tattoos) to local police who later arrested him. Unfortunately, apparently no one else took part in attempting to prevent this vandalism and the park guard was preoccupied at the time and did not see the event unfold.

Contrary to what some media reports have suggested, there is no evidence Kulju acted spontaneously nor impulsively but instead spent considerable time repeatedly walking around ahu, as if to steel his courage or perhaps keep an eye out for witnesses before he acted. It is difficult to accept, as one Weblog has suggested, that Kulju may have been simply attempting to "verify the hardness of the statue". And there is a world of difference between touching a statue and handling it in such a way as to break off a piece. (One shouldn’t be touching the statues in the first place and, in the second place, for those statues on platforms, to be able to touch a statue means one has had to climb onto the platform, which is forbidden.) Moreover, it seems disingenuous at best when the Finnish consul, according to other media reports, stated that Kulju was surprised his act would create such a "stir". How could he not know his actions were inappropriate? And, besides, who has the wherewithal to travel to Easter Island and visit one of its historic areas without knowing anything about how sacred it might be to the islanders or simply how valuable or fragile the site might be? This only inspires disbelieve that this tourist is merely ignorant, as otherwise how can one imagine him doing this sort of thing at any other famous or venerated places elsewhere in the world? There is no shortage of tour books about Easter Island, virtually every one of which addresses the sacred nature of the island’s shrines, the fragility of the statues, and the fact that tourists should obey signs and by all means stay off the platforms. Are we to believe that Kulju went to Easter Island with no preparation or reading or research or homework at all? Regardless, at least by his own admission (as reported in La Tercera), he has acknowledged that this is the worst mistake of his life. No argument there!

Though trails and some walls and fences have been introduced in recent years to control burgeoning tourist access and minimize damage at various sites (some damage of which can also be caused by the thousands of horses that run free on the island — another problem), part of the charm of Easter Island is the open accessibility of the historic sites. But that accessibility makes the sites vulnerable. And one can easily fear that vandalism like that committed by Kulju will only encourage the island authorities to impose even greater restrictions. Consider Stonehenge. Its sarsen stones and even its bluestones are orders of magnitude harder than the lapilli tuff out of which the moai at Ahu Nau Nau was made, but, because of past abuses by visitors, restrictions were eventually imposed at Stonehenge and, short of special permit, tourists are now limited to viewing the monument from a walkway that circumnavigates the site and doesn’t get much closer than 20 feet (6 meters). The Puna Pau topknot quarry on Easter Island has recently become off-limits; visitors may view it from a pathway along the edge of the quarry. Similarly, regions such as the Poike Peninsula and the island’s tallest peak, Maunga Terevaka, no longer allow motorized vehicular access. As necessary as it is, one must also lament the idea that more developments like this will evolve more fully on Easter Island.

How “bad” was this attack? Clearly, "bad" has two meanings here. The first is the heinous and callous nature of the injury to the statue, and there is no denying that the moai has been mutilated. It is not necessarily easy or inexpensive to repair such damage, nor will the moai retain its original aesthetic appeal, regardless of the state of reconstruction it was in at the time it was vandalized. Like other Polynesians, the early Easter Islanders believed (and some still believe) in the power of mana, a spiritual force with which the statues are imbued. One way to subtract mana or to de-sanctify a moai was to damage it. It is not necessary to believe in the Polynesian concept of mana to see that the damage done to this moai can be interpreted in terms of spiritual beliefs — and in some respects, repairs notwithstanding, this moai will never be the same again. The second "bad" aspect is that an act such as this does a disservice to tourists who take the time to learn what they can about the history and culture of Easter Island and who respect it and are grateful to experience it first-hand. Most people who visit Easter Island fulfill a lifelong dream in doing so. What is particularly "bad" about this is the act was committed out of stupidity, not ignorance, for there is plentiful information available that would have educated anyone with even meager curiosity about Easter Island as to how wrong it is to behave in this fashion, for this was not just a transgression against the sacredness of Easter Island that may be difficult for foreigners to fathom — but far and beyond this, the essential act is one of an omission of conscience. For no one should ever think it appropriate or insignificant to do what this tourist did. But one could hardly blame the islanders if because of acts like this they develop an even greater sense of scrutiny about and defensiveness towards tourists in general.

While likely to have been said tongue-in-cheek or out of hyperbolic frustration, Easter Island Mayor Pedro Edmunds Paoa said in a USA Today interview that he wished Kulju’s ear could be clipped off as punishment. “If an ear is cut off, then an ear gets cut,” Edmunds Paoa said. "Eye for eye, tooth for tooth: That would be my form of justice". In what can ultimately only be seen as a weak response to this comment, a representative of the Finnish Embassy in Santiago reported that the chairman of a health club where Kulju regularly practiced fitness boxing said he was a responsible and well-liked person. "We haven't had a single bad experience with him; quite the opposite," Eero Vsara told the Associated Press. (Well, that's easily said; how many sacred statues would one expect to find in a health club?)

In the end, unfortunately this is not likely to be the last time an event such as this will occur on Easter Island. Indeed, one may justly fear that, with increased tourism and limited resources, the problem is only going to get worse rather than better.

• • •

It’s the latest in a series of acts of vandalism and desecration that have been committed on the island in recent years. Not too long ago a Japanese tourist sprayed graffiti on the ahu at Vinapu; a Chilean man scratched his initials into a moai at Rano Raraku (where a British tourist also caused some damage a while back); tourists irreparably damaged cave artwork on the islet of Motu Nui; islanders have been known to scrape pigment from cave paintings; the ear of a moai on the Poike Peninsula was broken; the upright moai head at Vinapu was vandalized when an islander scratched eyes and a "happy face" smile onto it — and, on another occasion, someone scratched a tear-drop shape under one of the moai’s eyes. The island’s mayor even made a radio broadcast expressing anger about vandals who wrote graffiti on a moai; someone scratched initials onto a petroglyph panel at Rano Kau; and, in 2004, a 12-year-old island girl spray-painted graffiti (her initials) on the ahu at Tautira. In December of 2005, a Chilean administrator was demonstrating to his traveling partner how the moai were constructed when he threw a 14-centimeter (5.5-inch) rock at one of the statues, leaving two small scuff marks on the ancient sculpture and causing great embarrassment for the minister.

And, of course, one of the more egregious examples of vandalism on the island occurred when a certain Canadian "landscape artist" re-arranged rocks, in some cases at potentially archaeologically sensitive locations and, despite being held by authorities and his materials confiscated, he smuggled some film off the island which an unscrupulous Canadian arts magazine published along with an article by this "artist" who laughed at having thwarted the islanders and the fact that they were offended by his reprehensible and illegal conduct. [For more details about this story, follow this link.]


 

Gotland Conference Photos

Paul Horley, a scientist, scholar, Rapanuiphile, stylish dresser, and superb photographer, has generously enabled the EIF to share pictures he took during the recent Gotland conference. If you follow the link from the EIF’s Web banner page to "International Conferences", then select the "VII International Conference on Easter Island and the Pacific", you’ll find the conference abstracts page, with (duh) abstracts — but also links on the left margin to Gotland University and two buttons for links to Paul’s photographs — one set of which resides on his flickr site (landscapes, architecture, etc.), the other of which features pictures of attendees at the conference accessible via an clickable alphabetical list. There's even a section with pictures taken during activities like the banquet and various excursions as well as several video clips of stage performances.

Here’s your chance to put a face to a name. Enjoy!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/moon_rabbit/collections/


 

EIF Yahoo! Group

 

A new Yahoo! Group has been created to be the official online forum of the Easter Island Foundation! This new, moderated Yahoo! Group is designed to promote the mission objectives of

the EIF and by extension Easter Island itself. Members may

ask questions, share their experiences, post relevant news and reviews (about accommodations, restaurants, tours, etc.) or other informational entries, and ultimately expand our understanding of Easter Island and related subjects.

 

See below for instructions on joining the EIF Yahoo! Group.

If you are already a member of the "Easter Island Info." Yahoo! Group that was created some years ago, you should be familiar with how Yahoo! Groups works — but note that this new Group

is separate from the old one, operated independently, and is

officially-sanctioned by the Easter Island Foundation.

 

We want to make the experience of joining, and participating

in, a forum like this more dynamic, more stimulating, and more evocative for the Easter Island scholar, the Rapanuiphile, the prospective or past visitor, or the just-plain-curious!

 Don't miss this opportunity to add your voice to the sum

of voices discussing all things Rapanui!

 


 

Instructions for Joining the EIF Yahoo! Group

are as follows:

1) Go to www.yahoo.com.

2) On the left-hand side of your screen (or at the top, depending on how your main Yahoo! page is configured to display) should be a list of links. Click on the "Groups" link and this will take you to the Yahoo! Groups main page.

3) In the search box ("Find a Yahoo! Group"), type "easter island foundation" (without the quotation marks, of course) and press the [Enter] key. Click on the Group entry for "EasterIslandFoundation" to take you to the enrollment page of the Easter Island Foundation Yahoo! Group.

4) On the right-hand side of the Easter Island Foundation Yahoo! Group enrollment page there should be a blue button with "Join This Group" on it. If you click that, it will take you to the sign-in page where you’ll need a Yahoo! ID and password.

a) If you don’t have a Yahoo! ID and password, click on "Sign Up" under "Don’t have a Yahoo! ID?" and you’ll be taken through the process of creating a Yahoo! ID and password. It’s free, quick, fairly painless, and necessary. Once you have secured your Yahoo! ID and password, proceed to b) below.

b) Use your Yahoo! ID and password at the appropriate prompts. You’ll eventually reach a page where you can confirm your request to join the Easter Island Foundation Group, specify contact information for yourself, and how you’d like to access information from the Group (e.g., as e-mails sent to you individually or as digests or by logging in to the Group, which is what most people do). You also need to tell the Moderator something about yourself and why you want to join. Feel free to write whatever you’d like but you’re not required to say anything you don’t want to; at bare minimum, something like, "I’m interested in Easter Island" will suffice. After verifying that you want to join, you should reach a page telling you that your membership is pending. Upon approval from the Group Moderator, which usually doesn’t take very much time at all, you’ll receive an e-mail notification that your membership has been approved.

5) To to the  sign-in page and, at the Yahoo! ID and Password prompts, type in the appropriate info., and you should be in and ready to read messages, post your own, look at photos, ask questions, etc.

Questions? Contact books@islandheritage.org.


 

Obituaries

 

The Easter Island Foundation announces with much regret the passing of the following persons whose lives touched, or were touched by the world of Easter Island.

 


 

CLEMENTE HEREVERI

 

 

1975-2007

We find ourselves with the sad duty to announce the death of Clemente Hereveri of Easter Island. Though he was ill for several months preceding his death, at only 32 years of age, surely his passing is untimely. He was described as extremely bright and culturally Rapanui, more so than many other young, educated persons of his generation. He was very much interested in the Rapanui language and spoke it better than most. The people of Easter Island, it is said, loved him very much and were always choosing him as their representative. He shall be missed.

Please note: A more comprehensive obituary will appear in the next issue of the Rapa Nui Journal.


 

Arne Skjølsvold

 

(click to enlarge)

 

1925-2007

 

Arne Skjølsvold was one of the pioneers of Pacific field archaeology and held positions (in Norway) as curator and head of several museums and institutes as well as being a professor at the University of Oslo. He initiated the Kon-Tiki Museum Research Department in 1986 and was on the board of the Kon-Tiki Museum for more than 20 years. His PhD subject focused on the Neolithic and Bronze Age periods — but his interest turned to the Pacific when Thor Heyerdahl invited him on the expedition to the Galápagos Islands in 1952-53, and then as a member of Heyerdhal's expedition to Easter Island in 1955-56. Arne investigated the quarries at Rano Raraku and later during that expedition he excavated on the islands of Rai'vavae and Hiva Oa. Skjolsvold returned to Easter Island in the 1980s for several excavations, and also worked in Peru and the Maldive Islands in the Indian Ocean.

 

On a personal note, I best remember him from the 1980s when we were both on the island at the same time. He loved to sing and play guitar and there were many rollicking parties when he sang at the top of his lungs until he passed out. Many islanders today remember his singing and I am sure they may recall the drunken bouts. He always had a pretty vahine on at least one arm.

 

Georgia Lee       

 


FRANCESCO DI CASTRI

1930-2005

 

Easter Island has lost a friend. Francesco di Castri, ecologist, former deputy director of the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization, and former president of the World Science Institute, died July 6, 2005. He was the founding director of UNESCO’s Man and the Biosphere Program and was considered one of UNESCO’s principal contributors in promoting international cooperation on environmental issues. He was the director of the French CNRS Centre for Functional and Evolutionary Ecology, worked as a university professor in Chile, and was an expert on Easter Island. Dr. di Castri wrote more than 20 books and 350 articles, his work addressing such matters as soil biology, the convergence of Mediterranean ecosystems, and the structure of animal communities from the tropics to Antarctica. He contributed several articles for the Rapa Nui Journal, including

“The Dynamic Future of Rapa Nui” - RNJ 17(1):44-48 (May 2003) and “A Moai in Michelangelo Marble” - RNJ 19(1):51-52 (May 2005).

 

Over the years we were privileged to carry on a lively conversation with Francesco, via email. His letters expressed his love for Easter Island, but also dismay over its seemingly unsolvable problems. In early 2003, he wrote that he had just spent two weeks on the island, reviewing economic and social developments and talking with local authorities and entrepreneurs, operators of tourism, and those with very diverse aspirations. He visited sites for new hotels, new plantations of fruit and flowers, reviewed coastal erosion projects, and gave advice on the enormous erosion at Poike, as well as problems of livestock. He wrote that, “I now understand much better the diverse psychologies and aspirations of islanders. The most impressive change is the land distribution (from Vaihu up to the northern coast) of some 1.900 hectares, which will be followed soon by another 1.500 hectares. You can find whatever you like in these newly inhabited and cultivated lands, from some decent houses to the most ugly squatters, to just Eucalyptus plantations, or nothing, but certainly an impressive lot of barbed wire fences, padlocks, etc. A large part of the island is, for tourists, now impenetrable. He added that he expected to return to the island the following April to organize a seminar for land development and conditions for island autonomy. But his expectations were not high: “… they change their mind so often, both Rapanui and Chilean, that I really do not know if this will materialize…”.

 

He added, “Of course, some of my conversations with authorities could never be mentioned in a publication because this fragile process would immediately collapse, and we should start again in a dozen years or so. Rapa Nui is in a very dynamic state. According to the laws of thermodynamics, when this process takes place in a non-equilibrium status, it is technically called chaos, and this is precisely the island at present.” And he added, “…terrible management problems remain to be solved in Rapa Nui. I think that nowhere else in the world is there an island where, concerning its management, more unprecedented and surprising madness has occurred. It goes from the tragic to the completely ridiculous. Usually, I deal with development issues of such large countries as China, India, Canada, or Argentina. But stimulated by a strange mixture of fun and love, I have concentrated a sizeable amount of my time this year (December 2002-January 2003, April and June 2003) on Rapa Nui and Chile”.

 

In December 2004, di Castri wrote, “The situation in Rapa Nui is bad, very bad for its sustainability. In addition to the traffic congestion, including motorbikes and so many taxis (a world record), there is the continuous arrival of poor and uneducated Continentales, and the situation of waste disposal and treatment, etc., continues. Land use is a total disaster. Have you realized the level of erosion in Poike (totally eroded) and even around Rano Raraku and Rano Kao? It is also as bad in level parts because of the excess of cattle and horses. All ecosystems in Rapa Nui are under rapid destruction.”

 

Despite his frustration and struggles, Franesco di Castris valuable contributions to Easter Island studies will continue to have a positive impact for years to come

 


 

WILLIAM R. BARTLETT

 

 

1924-2007

 

Bill died peacefully in his sleep with his family by his side early Sunday morning, March 11th. He passed away after a valiant battle against lung cancer. Bill was an American hero, having served his country as a corporal in the Marine Corps fighting in the Pacific during World War II. He graduated from the Colorado School of Mines in 1951 and subsequently had a long and prosperous career as a petroleum engineer in Saudi Arabia. An inveterate traveler, Bill was a champion of the Afghan people before, during, and after their struggle against the Soviet Union. One of his greatest wishes was to see peace return to the people of that region and to the Middle East. He is survived by his wife of 49 years, Juliette, and his daughters Karen, Liza, and Jennifer. Memorial services will be held at Ross, Burke & Knobel Mortuary on Friday, March 16, 2007 at 11:00 am. In lieu of flowers, the family requests that you remember Bill by making a donation in his name to the American Cancer Society. We invite you to send a condolence message in the Remembrance Registry® Guestbook at the website of: www.rossburkeknobel.com

 

 

Bill Bartlett was a crewmember on the 1986 Easter Island petroglyph documentation project, under the auspices of the  University of Californias (Berkeley) University Research  Expeditions Program. He helped us to search for petroglyph sites and assisted with mapping and documenting the sites, and is remembered as a really great team member. Bill was always a low-key guy with a terrific sense of humor. His hang-loose attitude can be seen in the photograph taken of Bill shortly after he had cut his head while climbing into the projects van. We rushed him to the islands infamous hospital where a Chilean doctor patched him up, told him to put ice on his head, and take it easy. So here we see Bill with an ice pack on his head, contemplating the vagaries of life that brought him to this tiny island in the Pacific. No doubt his years  in the Middle East provided him with a bit of stoicism so that a bump on the head was only a minor setback. Bill was a special guy, and we shall miss him.

 

Georgia Lee       

 

 

04/10/08